Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Simple Blouse Variation: Quilted with Bias Tape Hem


 Another variation for the Simple Blouse Pattern!


CHANGES FROM STANDARD SIMPLE BLOUSE:
-LONG SLEEVES: Using pattern instructions, I lengthened the sleeves.  When you're sewing long sleeves with a fabric that doesn't stretch, the elbow measurement is really important to make sure you can bend your arms comfortably.  I tapered the wrist down and did a regular 1/2" total double fold hem on the sleeve
-QUILTED EMBELLISHMENT ON BLOUSE FRONT using metallic copper thread
-BIAS TAPE TO FINISH BLOUSE HEM rather than the 1/2" double fold

I thought this quilted look on the front piece would also look really cool with contrasting faux leather sleeves.
My fabric was a drape woven, but if you quilted a thicker sweatshirt fleece with foil knit leather sleeves, it would be a cool mix of casual with a little metallic quilted glam!



QUILTED BLOUSE INSTRUCTIONS:

1. CUT OUT BLOUSE
I cut this blouse on grain, so the diagonal sewing lines were sewing on the bias, which made it hard to maintain a flat stitch as the fabric wants to slide on the bias.
When I do this technique again, I would recommend:
cut blouse front on the bias so you're diagonal quilting is sewn on grain

2. MARK QUILT LINES
One blouse front, chalk the center front line, which is your fold line on the pattern.
I started 2.5" below the raw neck edge and chalked in a diagonal line 45 degrees from the center vertical.  
Using a clear quilting ruler, I chalked the other lines, all 2" apart.

3. SEW QUILT LINES
To prevent warping, I sewed the lines all from the same direction.
As mentioned in step 1, my blouse would have less bunching/ warping had I cut it on the bias.
4. COMPLETE BLOUSE WITH STANDARD INSTRUCTIONS

___________________________________________________________________

BIAS TAPE HEM
this technique is shown in SLEEVELESS variation on the arm holes and can also be used on neckline.

1. MAKE BIAS TAPE
I used scraps from my fabric to make coordinating bias tape.
I used the clover bias tape maker that creates 1" wide tape, then you press it in half to have 1/2" double fold bias tape.
You can always purchase bias tape as well!

2. SEW BIAS TAPE BACK
To attach the bias tape to the hem, I chose to sew the back of the tape to the wrong side of the blouse first.
Sew on the right side of the blouse, making sure the raw blouse edge is centered on the bias tape center fold.
**Remember to leave 1 to 2" of bias tape tail at the beginning and end of hem.
Join the bias tape ends as shown in pattern under SLEEVELESS steps 3 and 4**

4. TOP-STITCH BIAS TAPE
Once bias tape is sewn to blouse wrong side and the ends are connected, you can finish the hem.
Fold tape along the center fold, which makes the bias tape wrap around the blouse raw edge.
Carefully top-stitch right along bias tape edge for a professional finish.

FINISHED!
I chose to use the matching bias tape, as I already had a lot going on with the quilting, but I thought with a print it might be fun to use a solid contrasting fabric for a bias tape hem as well. 


4 comments:

Whitney and Brad said...

Looks great Jessica!

Lynette @ My Craft Discovery said...

I think this is my favorite variation of the pattern. I love the copper thread.

stephanie.h.n. said...

I love this variation! Looks both appropriate for cold weather but dressy and festive as well.

Charity said...

I love the quilting, and using copper thread for it was a great idea! I think a fun variation on the quilting would be to end it halfway down, instead of quilting all the way to the hem. =)

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